If you visit Morioka City in Iwate Prefecture, Japan, the “Three Great Noodles of Morioka” are an absolute must-try.
They are Wanko Soba, Morioka Reimen, and Jajamen.
Many people might already know about the famous “Reimen” (cold noodles) and the highly entertaining “Wanko Soba.”
However, the third noodle dish I am introducing today, “Jajamen,”
is the true soul food deeply loved by locals.
It’s a rather unique noodle dish where thick noodles are topped with meat miso, and you mix in vinegar, chili oil, garlic, and ginger yourself as you eat.
You might be a little surprised when you first see it, but one bite will surely change your impression.
Tourist guidebooks often introduce a restaurant called “白龍(Pairon)” as the birthplace of the dish, but this time I’ll guide you to another famous shop loved by locals: “不来方じゃじゃめん(Kozukata Jajamen).”
A Hidden Underground Spot
The restaurant is located in the Odori Shopping Street in the center of Morioka City.
However, finding it might be a bit of an adventure.
There is a staircase going down to the basement floor (B1F), giving it the feel of a hidden local favorite.
It might feel a little intimidating to enter for the first time.
Once you go down to the basement and look around, “Kozukata Jajamen” is on your right.
The noren (entrance curtain) has the letters “JaJa” written on it.
By the way, I hear there are regions in Iwate where people say “jaja” when they are surprised.
In the area where I live, “jeje” is still much more commonly used.
How to Order and the Secret of “Chi-tan”
There is a ticket machine inside, but it is currently not in use, so you order directly from the staff.
Payment is accepted in cash or via PayPay.
The menu is very simple: Jajamen, Chashu Jajamen, Medium Spicy, and Super Spicy.
The sizes are Normal, Large (1.5 portions), and Extra Large (2 portions).
This time, I ordered the standard Jajamen in an Extra Large size (2 portions), along with the special after-meal soup “Chi-tan-tan.”
At Kozukata Jajamen, they boil the noodles after receiving your order, so there is a slight wait, but it was still served in about 5 minutes.
The staff will kindly ask, “Do you know how to eat this?“
Even if it’s your first time, you don’t need to worry as there are eating instructions posted inside the restaurant.
Don’t Judge by Its Appearance
When the Jajamen is brought to you, the first thing that catches your eye is the grey meat miso.
To be honest, first-timers might be a little surprised.
But this is a dish that wins you over with its taste, not its appearance.
First, add the table condiments—ginger, garlic, vinegar, and chili oil—to your liking.
I recommend adding a slightly larger amount of ginger.
Mix it thoroughly before eating.
Partly because I ordered the Extra Large, the meat miso splattered a bit.
If you are wearing white clothes, you should be careful.
The Impressive Aroma of Ginger
Because the noodles are boiled to order, they have a perfect chewiness.
With one bite, the refreshing aroma of ginger spreads in your mouth.
The fresh ginger really brings the whole dish to life.
I couldn’t help but add some more.
Locals say “it rivals Pairon,” and I completely agree with that reputation.
I can highly recommend it even as your very first place to try Jajamen.
The crisp texture of the cucumbers also provides a nice accent.
Going with the Extra Large was the right choice.
The Magic Ending Soup “Chi-tan-tan”
There is one more thing to look forward to with Jajamen. That is Chi-tan-tan (egg drop soup).
Crack a raw egg from the table into your finished plate.
Scramble the egg well with your chopsticks.
Hand the plate to the staff and say, “Chi-tan, onegaishimasu!” (Chi-tan, please!).
They will pour in the noodle boiling water and bring it back to you.
Perhaps because I was the last customer that day, they even added some extra meat miso. This made me really happy.
The egg softly cooks in the piping hot soup, creating a very gentle flavor.
Adjust the taste to your liking with the salt and pepper on the table, and it’s complete.
I found it perfectly delicious without adding any extra salt.
Chi-tan-tan is an essential part of the Jajamen experience.
Please make sure to enjoy it to the very end.
A Must-Visit When in Morioka
The restaurant’s last order is at 8:20 PM, but they close as soon as they run out of meat miso.
On this day, I was the last customer, and they closed at 7:40 PM.
They accept payment in cash and PayPay.
Morioka has many attractive gourmet foods, but if you want to taste a bowl that locals eat on a daily basis, Jajamen is a dish you definitely need to experience.
If you’re visiting Morioka, don’t leave without trying Jajamen—and Kozukata Jajamen is one of the best places to experience it.
If you enjoyed this post, consider buying me a whisky.
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